Take a piece of tissue or kitchen towel and a bottle of thinner. Take good care for enough ventilation, thinner isn’t a pleasant liquid to work with. Wet the tissue with thinner and rub the tissue over the back of the paper. You can now see where the lines and text are placed. Next take a little more thinner and apply pressure during the rubbing. This will transfer the toner to the wood. You can slightly lift the paper to see if you have applied enough pressure. If not, wet the tissue again and apply some more pressure.
Here you can see al the panels on which the toner has been transfered. You can see which panel I did the last, the rest has already dried a little. Be patient, everything has to be completely dry before you continue.
Offcourse you can use a hand jigsaw or a (course) electrical jigsaw, but it work best with a (fine) electrical jigsaw as showed in the picture. You have the most control without having to put much pressure on the wood. This is very important if you have to saw small pieces (again see the photo).
This afternoon I drilled, sawed and sanded the panels. When sanding you need to take a special order into consideration (due to the size and shape of the panels). The panels are mounted in this order. First panels 2 and 3 (slanted front), then panel 1 (round front), panels 10 and 11 (round top and backside) and then panels 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 en 9 (rest).
Then you need to glue some panels together. These are 4 with 5 and 9 with 10. Keep in mind that the panels are numbered from right to left! Because panel 10 has a very narrow piece I first put panel 6 on the wire ends for support. After fastening all nuts I added some glue clamps with protection panels on top. Now we just have to wait until the glue has dried up.
I found another error in the original drawing for the thrustlevers. It stated a length of 12cm and when I wanted to put everything togerther I found out that it had to be 15cm. I amended the drawing, printed it, transfered it to the MDF, sawed it and mounted it again (and all that twice).
After this I could mount the rest of the woodwork to get an impression of how it could look. Both thrustlevers still have some space, but that will be fixed in the future. I found out that you need not only measure the distances between the panels, but also the total distance. Now there is a difference of 2mm between the front and the back. What I also noticed is that the left and right thrustlevers are swapped.
First I made a spreadsheet with not only the thicknes of the wood but also the distances between the panels. Besides the distances between each panel. I also calculated the total distance from panel 1. On those places where there is room between two adjacent panels I also described what that would be used for. This will make the assembly easier and definitely clearer.
I not only put each panel in the correct distance, I also switched both thrust levers and put them between nuts and washers. During this (renewed) mount I also found out (also due to the spreadsheet) that some panels aren’t only glued to eachother, but also mounted together. Panel 3 is directly mounted against the combination of panels 4 and 5. I assume this is to install the flaps handle more easy.
So dry fitting everything has its advantages. A number of things are now a lot clearer to me. Now I will have to make a list for all the electronic components that I will be needing to put everything together.
Today I started making the trimwheel. You need two circles of MDF 19cm diameter. For filling up the edge you need eight quarter circles. The outsides will be cut straight and the inside in an angle of 45 degrees.
After everything is cut and drilled the time has come to glue the circles together. Apply glue to one of these disc and put the backend of the drill to both holes to line the discs up. Then apply pressure by putting some glue clamps on the discs.
First I milled a number of panels and the indented wheel for the trim so the washers will be level with the MDF. This gives more room between the panels to mount things. I also shortened the middle wire end, this now ends directly after panel 8.
This makes it possible to mount the wire end for the trimwheel from the outside to directly after panel 9. By turning two nuts against eachother the wire end can turn without any space in panels 9 and 11. Because both the trimwheel and the indented wheel are mounted firmly on the wire end they can move freely.
To be able to mount the trimwheel, I had to move both outer wire ends so the surplus is now on the right side. The wire end for the trimwheel has it surplus still on the left side. All wire ends will be cut to length after everything is mounted as it should (but before mounting the finishing parts on the outside).
Today I turned the grips for (from top to bottom) the thrust levers, reversers and cut-offs. I drilled holes in the grips for the thrust levers for the wires of the auto pilot disengage switches. I drilled those holes a little slanted so they do not appear in the middle at the back side, there has to be room in the middle for the screw to attach the grip to the thrust lever. I also drilled a hole at the outside with a 12mm speed drill to be able to fit the switch.
From 3mm multiplex I made some discs with a hole in it for the auto throtlle disengage switch. On this I glued a ring of 9mm MDF so the switchs is partly covered. After fitting the switches I taped some sticky tape to the switches so I can paint the wood without also painting the switch.
Today I have been busy with the thrust levers. Specially the hiding of the wires had my attention. I routed some grooves in those places where the wires would otherwise be visible. These grooves are very ‘crude’ so the wires will better stick in those grooves.
I also mounted the strips for the reversers. These strips will have to be bent into shape later. To be able to determine the place of the pivoting point I put the microswitches in their places before drawing the holes for the strips
Today I have been busy to finish the thrust levers and reversers as far as possible. First I assembled everything (as far as necessary) to be able to measure the distances. I need this to calculate in what angles I have to bent the aluminum strips for the reversers.
After this I guided the wires of the thrust levers through the holes and screwed everything together. Wires that are pushed into a groove have the habit of coming out again. To prevent this I twisted the wires a little. This makes them stay where I want them to stay.
After assembling the aluminum strips things are going to look good. During this assembling I noticed that I had swapped the knobs on the handles. This corrupts the wiring schedule I had made (black left and red right). No problemo, just document it and remember it during the connection to the interface.
Today I have been busy with completely different things. Nevertheless I still found some time to make preparations for the cut-offs amongst other things. I determined the pivoting point for the cut-offs. I also made blocks as a ‘stop’ for the thrust levers.
On both the front stops as the down position of the cut-offs will come a microswitch to be able to determine its position. It may be possible that the microswitch for the cut-offs will also have to be placed on a small block depending on the distance between the panel and the strip. I will also glue some carpetting againts the stops for the thrust levers to dampen the sound (and feeling) when they touch. I will have to take this thickness into account when placing the blocks against the panels.